As I strolled alone along the Andador Turístico Macedonio Alcalá, the lively pedestrian strip running through Oaxaca City’s Centro Histórico (historic centre) on my first night, the tranquility of the early evening was broken by booming music headed my way.
A lively procession neared, led by a towering giant puppet couple attired in traditional dress with papier-mâché heads. Next came a white-clothed man hoisting a large spinning cloth balloon imprinted with the name of the occasion (a conference) and two tiliches, folkloric old men dressed in bright rag strips, wearing masks of animal skins and oversized palm sombreros.
Behind, eight dancers in white lace blouses and jewel-tone skirts each balanced a basket of flowers and hearts, stars or other icons on their head, their long black braids wrapped in satin jiggling as their voluminous skirts swirled to the brass band on their heels.
The tune musicians played on tubas, trumpets, trombones, horns, cymbals, and bass and snare drums rose to a crescendo as the parade sashayed down the cobblestone street of locally-quarried green volcanic Cantera stone.
Conference celebrants joined in, dancing and sipping mezcal from bamboo cylinders tied around their necks, and a throng of bystanders moved alongside, enjoying the fiesta. Mesmerized, I got caught up too.
A wedding calenda for a newly married couple in Oaxaca City (Photo Credit: Theresa Storm)
Later, Chimalli Travel guide Verónica Salgado Guzman told me these parades, called calendas, were introduced by Dominican friars in the Spanish colonial period to celebrate saints’ days. Today they’re how locals celebrate milestones like baptisms, weddings, pregnancies, funerals and business openings, as well as public occasions like national holidays, religious festivals and even protests. And, as I soon witnessed, they happen frequently.
Chasing calendas up the Andador became part of my daily routine in this lively, dynamic city that hums with activity from mid-morning until late. Culturally-rich and colourful at every turn, Oaxaca truly is a photographer’s dream.
Yet, despite Oaxaca's UNESCO World Heritage status for its 16th century colonial centre, together with the nearby Zapotec archeological site of Monte Albán, it is still off-the-international-tourism-beaten-path. Last year, nearly 168,000 foreigners visited the city, of which 7,400 were from Canada (4.4 percent) — compared to 1.153-million nationals. (Oceanside Huatulco and Puerto Escondido are much more popular with Canadians.)
Here’s what you need to know about booking a trip to Oaxaca. For a deeper dive into the food and art of the region, please see TravelPulse on Location: What to See and Do in Oaxaca City.
Accommodations in Oaxaca City
Accommodations range from hostels and quaint bed-and-breakfasts to boutique properties in restored colonial buildings and modern hotels. It is best to stay in the historic centre.
Quinta Real Oaxaca — (part of the Camino Real chain) Set in the grounds of the 16th century Santa Catalina de Siena ex-convent, the hotel has a tranquil atmosphere with inner courtyards and thick stone brickwork. Restored in 1976, the Quinta Real is the city’s luxury pick.
Advise clients to visit the hotel to take in its history even if they aren’t staying. A main floor hallway has a gallery of pre-reno photos. On weekends, there is a Guelaguetza dinner and show.
Here is where I stayed:
La Casa de Maria — a mid-range boutique choice in a good location, but no restaurant or bar. A set breakfast is offered for two hours.
Oaxaca Real — a full-service hotel ideally located in the centre with a pool, but rooms are small, dark and dated (at least mine was).
Casa Arnel — a budget choice in Jalatlaco with a homey Mexican vibe. I liked it.
Maria Ines Hotel Suite — a modern, clean hotel close to the airport. Good choice if your clients have an early morning flight, as I did.
Getting There
There are no non-stop flights to OAX from Canada but connections in Mexico City are frequent. Book your clients non-stop to CDMX from Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto or Montreal on Air Canada or WestJet (which just commenced new service from Calgary five times weekly and code-shares with Aeromexico).
With a new superhighway connecting the city to the Pacific seaside enclave of Puerto Escondido in just over three hours, develop a sea, sand and city itinerary for clients who want to do both. (Flying is another option.)
Food stands are plentiful throughout Oaxaca (Photo Credit: Theresa Storm)
Get Help
- Oaxaca DMCs/tour operators that work with travel advisors include Chimalli Travel Group, Rolan Tours, DMC Siente Oaxaca, and ONCE – Journeys for Women.
- Secretary of Tourism for the State of Oaxaca
- oaxaca.travel/index.php/es/ (in Spanish)
- Join the Travel Advisors Selling Mexico Adventures private Facebook group. It helps travel advisors and other travel professionals who promote adventure travel in Mexico to encourage sustainable development. It shares curated articles and education, insights and tips about adventure travel trends, happenings, activities and more. You can also ask questions of fellow TA’s.
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