by Jim Byers
Last updated: 12:35 AM ET, Mon July 12, 2021
KAMLOOPS TO BANFF- Our Rocky Mountaineer train car was only seconds into its journey, but the grins on the faces of the staff were bright enough to light up British Columbia.
One of the world's best-loved train trips was back in action last week after a long, 21-month hiatus. The passengers were thrilled, and so were the staff.
"This just means so much to all of us," one mountaineer guide told TravelPulse Canada, the only media organization to take part in the July 5-6 journey. "We love the scenery, of course, but what really makes this job so wonderful is the people we share it with and the friends we make along the way."
One couple from B.C. was celebrating their first vacation in 20 years without their kids.
"This is just so special," they said. "It's an amazing experience."
Rocky Mountaineer, which is celebrating its 31st anniversary, offers routes between Vancouver and Banff and also between Vancouver and Jasper National Park, one that goes via Kamloops and the other that travels through Whistler and Quesnel, B.C. Starting next month they'll be operating a train between Denver and Moab, Utah, which is just south of stunning Arches National Park.
Because of the British Columbia fires, their July 5-6 train couldn't take its usual route through the scenic Fraser Valley and along the Thompson River between Lytton and Kamloops. Instead, passengers either flew or took a comfortable coach from Vancouver to Kamloops and then picked up the train for the full-day ride to Banff.
The train wasn't even half full, so there was plenty of space for social distancing. Masks were requested to be worn when moving about the car.
The train journey began early in the morning with a departure from north Kamloops and a ride along the south side of the wide, deep blue South Thompson River. It was a perfect day, with the morning sun lighting up the soft, dun-coloured cliffs that line the river. We could see vineyards on the north side of the river and deep green fields on the south side, with black and brown cows lazing in the summer shade.
After a fine breakfast the train began to make its way into the mountains, passing along the shores of pretty Shuswap Lake. As we sailed past the town of Salmon Arm, families gathered on their front lawns to wave at the passing train.
Crew members pointed out sights of interest along the way, such as Craigellachie, site of the famous Last Spike in the Canadian Pacific Rail line, which linked Canada from coast to coast. They also tell fun stories about local historical characters, including bank robber Billy Miner and Matthew Baillie Begbie of Revelstoke, who became known as the "Hanging Judge."
One of our guides knew I wanted to get good photos, so after a nice lunch of chicken and salmon with a glass of B.C. wine, she made sure I knew exactly when we would pass over a bridge near Rogers, B.C. with a deep valley on one side and a waterfall on the other.
Our train climbed higher into the mountains, and we passed within a meter or two of rivers of icy green water rushing furiously through steep canyons of ancient rock. A handful of brave folks bumped along the river in deep blue rafts, and ravens and eagles soared over the top of our glassed-in dome roof, a feature in Rocky Mountaineer's Goldleaf service.
Pretty soon we were in the spiral tunnels that burrow into the mountain rock and allow the train to safely navigate the steep inclines near the B.C.-Alberta border. The mountain views are spectacular when you exit one of the tunnels and go from inky black to blue sky with towering mountains and deep, green forests.
The crew was tired from a long day, but elated.
"When I stepped on that train for the first departure, I could feel the excitement radiating off our team members," said Rocky Mountaineer founder Peter Armstrong, who rode the train from Kamloops to Banff and walked through the cars to say hello to passengers. "Once those first guests started to arrive, I was reminded why I started this business 31 years ago: to showcase some of the best scenery in the world in the best way possible - by train.
"It has been a long 21 months since we last operated a train, and our team is elated to be back doing what we do best, which is welcoming guests on incredible train journeys through Western Canada. With our return to operations, we want to assure Canadians that, when they are ready to travel, our Rocky Mountaineer team is here to welcome them for a safe and memorable journey."
Note: The Rocky Mountaineer has special packages for Canadians. They also have special promotions with Fairmont Hotels and with Aeroplan. Rocky Mountaineer trips include three hotel nights. We stayed at the Sheraton Wall Centre in Vancouver, The Delta Hotels by Marriott Kamloops and the Elk + Avenue Hotel in Banff. For more information, visit www.rockymountaineer.com.
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